EDDIE Ceremony - Rare insight with Makua Rothman

Eddie Aikau Invitational with Makua Rothman | Hawaii 2012 pt 5 from RVCA on Vimeo.

WESTERLY - Kickstarter...

Not your typical surf film plot line…but then Peter and Westerly are not your typical surfers:

Peter Drouyn was one of surfing's first superstars. A true visionary, he dominated the international competitive ranks in the '60s and '70s, invented man-on-man surfing, and introduced surfing to China. He was an actor, a lawyer, a father, a ladies' man, and most of all, a chameleon.

But there was much about Peter Drouyn that he kept private. As a child, he liked to dress up in women's clothes. During his competitive years, he was hypersensitive and introspective amid a culture that was often macho, myopic, and sexist. For most of his career he felt ostracized. In the '80s he drifted away from competitive surfing and all but disappeared.

In 2002, Peter suffered a traumatic surfing accident that nearly drowned him. Not long after, Peter's feminine side fully emerged. "It was a supernova," said Westerly. "It just kicked in one night, and suddenly Peter went, Westerly was there."

Find out how to help get the "Westerly" project get off the ground by visiting their Kickstarter page.

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/962524884/westerly-a-man-a-woman-an-enigma

SURFER - Behind the Cover - Shane Dorian

MICK O MATIC in B&W...

MICK_ mon·o·chro·mat·ic from Andrew Buckley on Vimeo.

The Paddle Session - Jaws October 2012

Photo: Fred Pompermeyer

Happy 143 Ghandi..!

On what would have been Gandhi's 143rd birthday here are five inspirational quotes from the Mahatma ( skipping over the ones most people probably already know, like being the change you want to see...) for the green movement.

1. "There is more to life than increasing its speed." 
2. "First they ignore you; then they laugh at you; then they fight you; then you win."
3. "The difference between what we do and what we are capable of doing would suffice to solve most of the world's problems."
4. "Interdependence is and ought to be as much the ideal of man as self-sufficiency. Man is a social being."
5. "When I admire the wonders of the sunset or the beauty of the moon, my soul expands in the worship of the creator."

Baddy... Almost B&W...

MR

johnwitzig.com.au

M.P.

Lost & Found - Buttons

Lost & Found/ BUTTONS KALUHIOKALANI from Corduroy Films on Vimeo.

Black & White's skyview...

Shaun White's skyview above the Superpipe in Aspen, Colorado.

AI Forever...

No words needed...

ke11y... full story

Kelly Slater Claims Historic 11th ASP World Title at Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco

OCEAN BEACH, San Francisco/California (Wednesday, November 2, 2011) – Kelly Slater (USA), 39, has claimed a historic 11th ASP World Title today, clinching the year-long pursuit with his advancement out of Round 3 at the Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco.

In pristine three-to-five foot (1 – 1.5 metre) peaks at Ocean Beach, Slater fought back to an inspired start from opponent Dan Ross (AUS), 28, to claim victory in the dying moments in front of a capacity crowd at Ocean Beach.



“It was a scrappy heat, I didn’t win it in the most effortless style,” Slater said. “I’ve had a lot of heats with Rossy (Dan Ross) this year, and he’s real dangerous with a little power so I knew he’d be dangerous and I was nowhere to be found in the beginning of that heat. I was hunting those lefts and they were fading off I was thinking ‘why am I taking off on these things.’ I knew I had to get in on some of those rights. That wave had a nice open face and I thought it’d probably be just enough.”

After a banner year that witnessed the iconic Floridian make five of nine Finals (thus far) and post three wins, Slater seems to be surfing at the top of his game.

“This is pretty fabulous,” Slater said. “Two days ago in the afternoon it was chunky and small and didn’t look inviting at all. Yesterday was nice and today looks like a nice day in France. I don’t know, this hasn’t sunk in. I’ve been pretty stressed about it and I’m glad it’s over. It’s very fulfilling and there’s personal satisfaction. It feels real nice. I’ve dedicated my life to surfing and competing and to go a whole year and win a world title and have it pay off, it’s really fulfilling. To win on American soil is nice. Everyone’s been so cool and the locals have been so stoked. It’s been a special time. It’s been warm and offshore and a nice little swell. Someone’s looking over us and probably Andy (Irons).”

Today’s clinching of the 2011 ASP World Title comes on the one-year anniversary of the passing of Andy Irons. Irons, who is credited with being a defining force in Slater’s career, was once a bitter rival of the champ (claiming three consecutive ASP World Titles himself) but became a close friend and confidant in recent years. The symbolism of today was not lost on Slater.

“It’s sort of weird and I’ve been thinking about a lot of things coming together,” Slater said. “What are the chances of me winning on the anniversary of Andy passing away? It makes it a lot more special for me. It’s a way to celebrate my memories with him and be thinking about him. It’s been on my mind and I wrote a story about him the other day. It’s a time to think back.”

2011 ASP World Title Series Results:
Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast: WINNER
Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach: Equal 5th
Billabong Rio Pro: Equal 13th
Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay: No Show
Billabong Pro Tahiti: WINNER
Quiksilver Pro New York: Runner-Up
Hurley Pro at Trestles: WINNER
Quiksilver Pro France: Equal 5th
Rip Curl Pro Portugal: Runner-UP
Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco: TBD
Billabong Pipeline Masters: TBD

With the 2011 ASP World Title sealed, Slater is now focused on performing in the event at hand, the Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco.

“I’m refocusing on another win here,” Slater said. “I’ve accomplished the year goal. I definitely feel like I can go out and surf a lot more relaxed now. It’s really nice to win here in these conditions with so many people on the beach, I thought it’d be freezing cold and onshore and it’s been amazing.”

Having claimed his first ASP World Title in 1992 at the age of 20, Slater still boasts the record for the youngest-ever ASP World Title holder. Now at 39 years of age, Slater holds the record of being the oldest ASP World Champion ever, but was characteristically coy regarding any talk of retirement.

“I think 39 is actually pretty young to most people,” Slater said. “I guess in the past, you would top out once you hit 30, but that’s definitely not the case now. I feel like I’m surfing at the highest level of my career and I feel like I can keep going. I haven’t thought about it too much, but I plan on relaxing for the rest of the year and enjoying my time in Hawaii. We’ll see what 2012 brings to the table.”

Kelly Slater’s ASP World Title Clinch Locations:
2011: Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco – USA
2010: Rip Curl Pro Search Puerto Rico – USA Territory
2008: Billabong Pro Mundaka – Basque/Spain
2006: Billabong Pro Mundaka – Basque/Spain
2005: Nova Schin Festival – Brazil
1998: Mountain Dew Pipeline Masters – Hawaii
1997: Expo 98 Figueira 97 – Portugal
1996: Coca Cola Figueira 96 – Portugal
1995: Chiemsee Pipe Masters – Hawaii
1994: Chiemsee Gerry Lopez Pipe Masters – Hawaii
1992: Alternativa Surf Rio – Brazil

The Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco is Stop No. 10 of 11 on the 2011 ASP World Title Series with a waiting period from November 1-12. The 2011 Pro Search will be broadcast live on Fuel TV, Livestream.com and live.ripcurl.com

Surfline, official forecasters for the Rip Curl Pro Search San Francisco, are calling for he first two days of the waiting period, Tuesday and Wednesday, to see solid northwest ground and windswell mix along with generally favorable wind conditions (although still lumpy and bumpy surf on Tuesday). The end of the week and into the following weekend (3rd-6th) will see more swell, but also variable and, at times, strong onshore wind.

1% For The Planet Ambassador - Jack Johnson

JJ - Love Your Mother...

Jack Johnson | 1% For the Planet Film from 1% for the Planet on Vimeo.
Jack Johnson
Musician
Visit Jack's website

Jack Johnson grew up surfing and playing guitar on the North Shore of Oahu. He released his first album Brushfire Fairytales in 2001 and, in the last ten years, has released 5 more albums that have sold over 20 million copies worldwide. With his success, Johnson has always tried to take the spotlight and shine it on issues important to him. In 2003, Jack and his wife Kim founded the Kokua Hawaii Foundation and Kokua Festival to support environmental education in Hawaii's schools and communities. Johnson, his Brushfire Records label, and his touring crew have been leaders in the greening of the music industry in all areas of tour production and album packaging. In 2004, Jack became the 50th member of 1% For The Planet. Johnson's 2005 release of In Between Dreams became the first album to carry the 1% label and his 2005 world tour promoted the 1% for the Planet mission and brand and helped to launch the organization. In 2008, Jack donated 100% of his Sleep Through the Static tour profits to establish the Johnson Ohana Charitable Foundation, an endowment founded by Jack and Kim Johnson to support environmental, art and music education worldwide. 100% of Jack Johnson's 2010/2011 To The Sea tour profits have also been donated to charity.

Through these efforts, the Johnson's have donated and directed over $25 million to charity.

Laurie Towner - Mesmerizing...

Laurie Towner's no small fry being well over 6ft tall...

Now,,, with fresh eyes, take a closer look at this recent Teahupo'o monster he slayed..

1. Depth, size of foam ball & poised to pounce...
2. Breadth, throwing out further than its high...!
3. Height, lip has got to be as think as he his tall.
4. Total Length, from foam ball to lip over vertical is ridiculous
5. Volume, water is one thing but look at the capacity of this cavern..
6. Suck, water sucking off the reef maybe up to 6ft below sea level
7. Shape, perfect almond throwing out further than it is high
8. Positioning, where the laid back, lay back hand deployed, almost pushing off...
9. Line, he's almost neutral, almost toe side and heading out toward the lip...
10. Foreground, how much water is in this next section of lip about to throw...

Round figures,,, but there's at least 20ft behind him, 20ft  in front him, 20ft down the line that beyond vertical & its inside height is about 10ft high..

That's Length 40ft by Width 20ft by Height 10ft..! I'm no mathematician, but that's like 8,000 feet cubed..! And this was one of the smaller ones of the day...

Now replay your favourite biggest barrel and do the math...

Mesmerizing..!