Friday, October 19, 2012


My first time ever on the Island was when i was 15, and that was 14 years ago. I surfed the biggest waves of my life and experienced moments that i will remember for a long time. Seeing the power of the ocean at certain breaks was one thing, but what stood out the most was the feeling of fear as i paddled out towards the horizon each time i saw a set. Then overcoming the fear by trying to hold your ground and be in position to actually catch one. After that the fear would dissolve into more of an addiction to catch another one, and another one. Hanging out with Kohl Christensen recently for a week in Hawaii brought back some of these feelings, mostly fear:) No huge goals or outcomes expected other than to catch some solid waves and test a few boards. It was one of the best spur of the moment trips ive ever done. That feeling of dropping into a decent size wave or getting held under for a while really slows you down mentally. I remember Kohl mentioning that the cool thing for him about surfing huge waves is that it's the place where he thinks of nothing at all except for whats going on in that particular moment. I know that for the 3 hours i was out in the lineup at Jaws with him, i didn't think of much else except, where's the next set, and where do i have to be to not get it on the head! This one was close.. thats us in the middle :)

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